Provision of the quality of decoration of semifinished fashionable clothes, made of suiting fabrics with cotton content (denim type)

Abstract

The article is devoted to the problem of provision of the quality of decoration of semi-finished fashion products from the fabrics of suiting group of denim type, embroidered by a machine method. Standard methods of the research of geometric properties of textile materials (thickness, surface density), as well as rupture characteristics at constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine (force at rupture, extension) are used. The embroidery of the samples is made using the Brother Innovis 750S machine. As a result of the analysis of 7 samples of the materials of suiting group, “stretch-denim” type, is it found that еlongation at rupture in weft of all of the samples exceeds the value of such indicator in warp and reaches 37.5 %, and the samples with elastane and polyamide content have higher value of the indicator. The conducted correlation analysis showed a strong correlation between weight and force at rupture in warp (r = 0.84), as well as between weight and thickness (r = 0.74). All samples of denim-like fabrics are conventionally divided into 3 groups in accordance with their elongation at rupture in weft: 1) 30%...40%; 2) 20…30% 3) 15…20%. Classification of the defects of embroidered semi-finished products is improved. All defects are divided into: 1-dimensional (stitch defects); 2-dimensional (defects of setting the fabric in the embroidery frame, embroidery defects); and 3-dimensional (deformation of the embroidered area; deformation of the area, adjacent to the embroidered area; deformation of the materials along the embroidery frame line). The method of evaluation of the quality of semi-finished products embroidery using the 4-point scale (where 0 – unsatisfactory, 3 – no identified defects) is proposed. Evaluation of embroidery with a complex design is recommended to be carried out separately for each area of the image. The use of a duplicate glutinous material for stabilization of semi-finished products, made of denim-like fabrics, for machine embroidery is recommended. The research is a contribution to the development of fashion design of the products, made of denim-like fabrics, decorated with machine embroidery.