Study of properties of overcoating fabrics during design of women's clothes in different forms

Abstract

The article presents a study of the process of designing women’s garments of the coating and suiting assortment, made from different fabrics to determine the fabric properties effect on the parameters of shaping the volume-silhouette form of clothes. An expert evaluation of the significance of material properties for the creation of tectonic forms of clothes was carried out and the most significant properties were determined, i.e. rigidity, thickness, drapeability, mass per unit area, type of weave, raw material composition. An experimental study of physical and mechanical characteristics of overcoating fabrics was performed. To validate the research results, we made samples of women’s coats in different forms at a garment company. It was determined that the raw material composition of fabrics does not affect significantly their physical and mechanical characteristics (drapeability, rigidity). The weave of fabrics which determines other indicators was considered to be more significant. As a result, the relationships between the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics of the coat group and the shaping of women’s coats in different volume-silhouette forms were identified. The latter can be used in the design of garments for an individual and mass production.

V članku je predstavljena študija procesa oblikovanja vrhnjih ženskih oblačil, od plaščev do vrhnjih oblek, ki so bila izdelana iz različnih tkanin z namenom, da bi ugotovili vplive lastnosti tkanin na parametre oblikovanja volumske silhuete oblačil. Strokovno je bil ovrednoten pomen posameznih lastnosti materialov za ustvarjanje tekstonskih oblačilnih form. Med ugotovljene najpomembnejše lastnosti spadajo togost, debelina, pad, površinska masa, vezava in surovinska sestava materiala. Opravljena je bila analiza fi zikalnih in mehanskih lastnosti izbranih tkanin za vrhnja oblačila. Preverjanje dobljenih rezultatov je bilo izvedeno na vzorcih ženskih plaščev različnih oblik, izdelanih v oblačilnem podjetju. Ugotovljeno je bilo, da surovinska sestava tkanin ne vpliva bistveno na njihovo togost in pad. Vezava tkanin se je izkazala za vplivnejši dejavnik. Posledično so bila ugotov ljena razmerja med fi zikalnimi in mehanskimi lastnostmi tkanin in oblikovanjem ženskih plaščev različnih volumskih oblik in različnih silhuet, ki jih je mogoče uporabiti pri oblikovanju oblačil po meri posameznika in za masovno proizvodnjo.